1996 Nuits St Georges

Displaying a bright, medium-to-dark ruby color and aromas reminiscent of minerals soaked in cassis liqueur and violets, this is a tangy, rich, broad, and medium-to-full-bodied wine. Layers of juicy and intense black cherries, blackberries, and stones can be found in this structured, thick, and powerful offering. This offering's palate-saturating presence is impressive. Projected maturity: 2000-2005. Philippe and Vincent Lecheneaut produce wines that resemble them - strong, muscular, and expressive. In the past I have described certain wines as being like ballerinas, well-known actresses, football players, etc. These are rugby players, strong, rough (at first), but explosive, with considerable stamina (staying power). I tasted these wines twice, once in November, 1997, and then again in late January, 1998. At my first tasting the wines were quite backward, oaky, and tannic but two and a half months later they had softened while still displaying loads of fruit. Some of these wines are worth making every effort to locate. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.