1998 Veuve Clicquot la Grande Dame

An extremely cold winter, with snow on the Montagne de Reims, gave way to an unexpected warm spell with moderate rain showers. Spring was early and wet, but May was particularly hot and dry. The rain we had at the end of June didn’t affect flowering, which took place under excellent, almost heat wave, conditions. At the beginning of summer there were alternating periods of hot weather then rain which encouraged rapid growth. August was perfect for ripening: dry and sunny. After a grey and cloudy two weeks at the beginning of September, the weather turned, providing the ideal dry climate to harvest the grapes, which were in superb condition. 64% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay. Dosage 8 g/l, disgorged June 2008. Pale gold. A little more savoury and spicy than the 2006, even a hint of ginger, lightly honeyed too. But with time in the glass, it seems more floral and exotic and almondy. On the palate, much tighter than I expected from the aroma, a tight cedar-like freshness, really zesty and the emphasis more on freshness than on weight but no lack of intensity. A creamy, full and rounded texture, generous but mouth-watering too. Very satisfying. Fine and lasting mousse – shown off very well by the Grande Dame glasses. (JH)