2009 Clos Vougeot

The 2009 Clos de Vougeot is totally elegant, striking and pure. In 2009 the wine has a level of elegance and pure sexiness that is unbelievably rare for Clos de Vougeot. Sweet red berries meld into flowers, mint, licorice and spices as this refined Burgundy continues to open up in the glass. The intense salinity and energy of the finish is striking. This is another dazzling wine from Arnaud Mortet. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Good full red. Closed nose hints at black cherry, licorice and caraway seed; a bit less refined than the 2010. Tightly coiled and energetic, with solid acid cut to the flavors of blackberry and wild herbs. Finishes long, powerful and fresh, with subtle sweetness but a slightly hard-edged quality. Mortet normally doesn't acidify his wines, but he added a bit of tartaric acid to this and the Chambolle-Musigny Beaux-Bruns as these grapes need time to reach phenolic maturity in '09 and were low in acidity by the time they were harvested.

Notably dark crimson. Jewelly rather modern fruit. Sweet and flattering on the palate. This might not be the most appetising example. But it’s charming in a candied cherry sort of way. Firm finish. (JR)