2005 Pagodes de Cos

Plenty of vivid raspberry and plum fruit evident on the nose, along with soft toasted cumin spices. This is gorgeous, such a lovely moment to drink, with good balance, and the hidden understated power of Cos, attractive spicy notes, brambled dark fruits, with lift, ease and approachability. Tasted out of magnum because no bottles remaining at the estate. The vineyard work continued to increase precision at this point, with micro-terroir studies, splitting up the plots to smaller sizes. Vinification out of a temporary cellar but using new vats with double-lined small-sized stainless steel, and softer pumps before the move to full gravity. Harvest September 22 to October 9. Dominique Arangoïts technical director, Eric Boissenot consultant.

Tasted blind. Quite evolved-looking. Very pure Cabernet fruit on the nose. Clean and fresh. Muscular. Not a spare ounce of flesh. Lots of blackcurrant. (JR)

The 2005 Les Pagodes de Cos is a delicious second wine, with soft tannin, a dense ruby/plum/purple color, loads of blackcurrants, cherries and some earth in an easygoing, sexy style. Drink it over the next decade or more.