1998 Calvari

I loved the 1998 Calvari (magnum) for its overall balance. To be sure, the 1998 is a smaller scaled vintage than either 1996 or 1997 but the wine's poise and sense of harmony are utterly brilliant. Medium in body, the 1998 emerges with the essence of mocha, roasted coffee beans, grilled herbs, tar, licorice and plums. This takes some time in the glass to come together, but everything is in the right place. The 1998 remains an infant, but it can be enjoyed today with some advance aeration.