2011 Mercurey Les Montots

The 2011 Mercurey Les Montots, which comes from a steep south-facing slope cultivated with clones from Nuits Saint Georges, has a beguiling bouquet whose charms creep up from behind: cranberry leaf and red plum, autumn leaves and nettle all wonderfully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with sharp acidity lending this freshness, but there is sufficient dark berry fruit infused with Earl Grey tea to maintain balance. This is the kind of bottle that seems unimpressive at first, but by the time you begin to appreciate its charm, you find the bottle empty. Drink now-2020. While Aubert de Villaine is synonymous with Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, there is no question that at least one ventricle of his heart is devoted to his personal estate in Bouzeron that he bought with his wife Pamela in the 1970s. I think it is partly responsible for Aubert remaining such a down-to-earth personality, when others might have succumbed to self-aggrandizement occupying such a position. Pierre de Benoist, Aubert’s nephew, has been at the helm since 2000. As you might expect, these are well-crafted wines that are often understated and nuanced, occasionally utterly beguiling. The Bouzeron comes from Aligote dore rather than Aligote vert, which de Villaine feels is more aromatic thanks to its lower yields. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; and Corney & Barrow in the UK.