2006 Mazis Chambertin

Bernard Dugat's 2006 Mazis-Chambertin – originating in three parcels of the Mazis-Bas, only 25% of whose fruit was destemmed – is even smokier and peatier in the nose as well as on the palate than other wines in its collection, while at the same time perfumed with rose, violet and gentian, all of almost distilled intensity. Dark cherry, purple plum, blueberry, and blackberry are tinged with cumin, curry powder, and dark chocolate on a palate whose abundant tannins generate no roughness and whose sheer concentration does not preclude a sense of lift and energy. The relentless, enveloping creep of smokiness extends though a finish of utmost length and deep, reverberating layers of flavor. As usual, Bernard Dugat prided himself on having been able to harvest ahead of the ban de vendange thanks to the intensity of his vineyard labors and to yields of around 25 hectoliters per hectare. (He also credits the accumulated effects of three years on a biodynamic regimen.) Potential alcohol was for the most part in the high 12s, and only a handful of cuvees were lightly chaptalized, Dugat reports. As usual, too, he employed significant percentages of whole clusters and stems in most wines. For further details on Bernard Dugat's approach, see my report in issue 170. Perhaps it hardly requires noting, but the prices of these wines continue to rise relentlessly, sadly but perhaps inevitably putting them out of the reach of most Burgundy lovers. And unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste the two red appellation Bourgogne bottlings of this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

(vinified with 75% whole clusters) Good deep red. Wild aromas of crushed blackberry, mocha, game and nutty oak. Offers a compelling crystallized-fruit sweetness and enough flesh to buffer its huge, toothcoating tannins. As chewy and gripping as this is, it's also very suave and not at all hard. Not quite as refined as the '07 but impressively rich, especially for the vintage. I could imagine trying a bottle in a couple of years, after giving it some time in a decanter.

(vinified with 80% to 90% of its stems) Red-ruby. Incredible nose combines blackberry, grape jelly, minerals, bitter chocolate and espresso. A distinctly masculine, penetrating, gripping wine with superb delineation to its blackberry, game and violet flavors. But not particularly sweet and quite firmly tannic, even a bit youthfully brutal, on the extremely long, extract-rich finish. Like the Mazoyeres, this will need a solid decade of patience.