2001 Mazis Chambertin

The masculine, foursquare 2001 Mazis-Chambertin is a brooding monster. Chewy-textured, it saturates the palate with highly extracted black fruits. This massively concentrated, backward wine is dense and loaded with ripe, yet firm tannin. Projected maturity: 2007-2017. No offense to Peter Weygandt, this estate’s importer, but can anyone think of an easier job than having to sell Bernard Dugat’s wines? For the past decade, this 7.5 hectare (18.53 acre) domaine has consistently produced exceptional wines, a testimony to the relentless pursuit of quality exhibited by Dugat, his wife, and children. “Yes, it’s true that we live in the vineyards, working from morning to night, but the primary reasons we don’t have the same problems as many others in Burgundy is that we concentrate on having low yields and are fortunate enough to have old vines,” sais Bernard Dugat. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Cask sample Almost black, its purple is so intense. Positively feral nose. Full, powerful, purple-tasting. Flamboyant. Lots of tannins. This needs a very long time to unfurl and at this stage tastes almost like a caricature. It may well all fall into place eventually but, like the Petite Chapelle, this would be best bought by hunters of large beasts. (JR)

Deep, bright ruby. Knockout nose combines black fruits, minerals and sauvage animal nuances. Dense, thick and lush, with very suave black fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Really sappy and chewy thanks to firm framing acidity. The tannins are fine but substantial and the finishing flavors mount slowly and inexorably. Not an easy style, but a wine with great reserves of flavor.