2000 Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne

The 2000 Femme de Champagne is another noble prestige cuvée of Duval-Leroy and, honestly, it is even finer, purer and more delicate than the tight and tension-full 1996. The purity, elegance and finesse is as obvious on the nose (russet apples, brioche, white chocolate, hazelnut, floral/herbal flavors) as on the palate where this medium to full-bodied wine leads to a firm and complex mineral finish of great persistence.

(95% chardonnay and 5% pinot noir; L 2193 OM): Bright gold. Complex aromas of fresh pit and orchard fruits, with bright floral and chalky mineral qualities adding lift and focus. Meyer lemon and bitter pear skin flavors are complemented by chamomile and buttery brioche, with a hint of tarragon in the background. Closes smooth, smoky and very long, with bracing citrus fruit qualities adding bite. All of the chardonnay in this blend comes from grand cru sites in Chouilly, Avize, Oger and Mesnil-sur-Oger.

Some bready development on the nose but an amazingly youthful, tight palate still with marked acidity. Still quite a life ahead. (JR)