2006 Romanee St Vivant

Scents of ginger, cinnamon, star anise, kirsch, framboise, marzipan, pistachio extract, and wood smoke rise dramatically from the glass of Arnoux 2006 Romanee Saint-Vivant, and the more so with further exposure. The sweet fruit and nut extract counterparts to these high-tones fan out in the mouth with liqueur-like richness, palpable abundance of extract, and ultra-fine tannins. Smoky, stony undertones convey an almost reverberative sense, but this is far less dominated by metaphorically dark, decadent, or meditative aspects than are most representatives of its great cru. Nor has this the soothing allure that characterizes so many of the best 2006s. A palate-staining, gripping, electrically energetic finish is in store for the lucky few who are served this (there were five barrels), featuring implosively-concentrated black fruits and meat reduction mingled with soy, nut paste, and brown spices. I would not re-visit it until 2012 or later and anticipate its remaining compelling two decades. Pascal Lachaux – who subscribes to the prevalent notion that this vintage reflects elements of 2000 and 2002 – is one of the very few red Burgundy growers (Rouget another) whose 2006s strike me as outclassing their 2005s. It's possible that his having had a prior vintage to become accustomed to the opportunities afforded by his spacious new, gravity flow cellar contributed to his success this year. And it's of course also possible that I have under- or over-rated one of these vintages. Lachaux – who defends 2005 as one of his best-ever collections – concurs in finding each 2006 typical for its site as well as more expressive than his 2005s have thus far been, and in the observation that these 2006s improve as they open to the air, suggesting to me considerable longer-term cellaring potential than one can expect from most wines of the vintage. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990