1989 Pouilly Fuisse Vieilles Vignes

The astonishingly rich 1989 Pouilly-Fuisse-Vieilles Vignes could easily be confused for a top Cote d'Or grand cru for its layer upon layer of buttery, super-ripe, pineapple-scented and flavored fruitiness, vivid purity and definition, plenty of lushness, and decadent levels of extract in the long, heady finish. Despite what the label says, I am convinced there must be 14% or more alcohol in this blockbuster Pouilly-Fuisse. Drink it over the next 5-7 years. Chateau Fuisse is irrefutably the most famous domaine in southern Burgundy. Its top cuvees of Pouilly-Fuisse, which are, justifiably, legendary, now fetch astonishingly high prices of $35-$55 a bottle. While that price may appear appalling, I can think of numerous white burgundies from the Cote d'Or that sell for higher prices, but deliver far less quality. Chateau Fuisse would appear to have had success in both 1989 and 1990. Admittedly, the 1989s are more opulent, more alcoholic, lower in acidity, and clearly blockbuster white burgundies. The 1990s tend to be slightly more floral, with higher acidity, yet without the weight of the 1989s. So, depending on your tastebuds, there is plenty to choose from. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY.