1996 Domaine de Chevalier

The 1996 Domaine de Chevalier offers blackberry, gravel and a touch of animal fur on the nose, with a touch of Brett lurking off-stage. But I appreciate that this is just very… Pessac. The palate is medium-bodied with a granular texture and modest weight. The fruit is blacker than the 1996 La Tour Haut-Brion served alongside, with a lightly spiced and youthful finish. Tasted at La Trompette at the WIMPS Bordeaux lunch.

Tasted at the château, the 1996 Domaine de Chevalier certainly surpassed my expectations even though I would caution that I think Olivier Bernard has made better vintages since then. Deep in color, the nose is quite captivating with black fruit, brine and crushed stone. I like the strictness here -- very 1996 in style. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a svelte texture. The bead of acidity lends this tension although I found that finish surprisingly backward and just lacked that peacock's tail that would have warranted a higher score. Of course, there is a chance that this could come with time because it is undeniably very well balanced and pure. It just needs a bit more ... ambition. Tasted July 2016.