1988 Domaine de Chevalier

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Harvested 26 September to 12 October. Brick colour. Forest-floor nose. Still some mid-palate fruit. Fresh and long with a slight ‘cut’ to the finish but holding up all the same. Very much a ‘classic’ wine. (JL)

Though I have tasted most vintages of this estate, it is my first encounter with the 1988 Domaine de Chevalier when I visited the property. It has a dark garnet core with commensurate bricking on the rim for a 30-year old wine. The bouquet is decidedly old school: vestiges of black fruit intermingling with cigar box, smoke and pressed flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, rather dry tannin. The second feels a little more mature than the first, missing a little flesh and finish in slightly austere fashion, but it never relinquishes its freshness and there is piquancy that you cannot help falling for. Avoid if you want “gobs of fruit” but welcome this onto your dinner table if you have a penchant for traditional Claret. Tasted at the château.

Healthy crimson. Something not quite right on the nose. Drying palate – lot of acidity but the fruit doesn’t shine through. I think another bottle of this may be rather good. (JR)