1996 Charmes Chambertin

Light ruby. Not especially expressive – a bit lacking stuffing. Lean and not 100% clean. Pretty chewy. Very light. A whisper rather than a song. Dry finish. (JR)

This dark-colored wine may earn a score at the top of the range, if it gathers some more depth during its elevage. It displays a deep nose of super-sweet black cherries, and a pleasing, seductive, and medium-to-full-bodied character filled with delineated and pure flavors of candied raspberries and cherries. This spicy, silky-textured, expressive, and elegant wine concludes with a long, satiny finish. Projected maturity: 1999-2005. As far as the 1996 vintage is concerned, Rousseau's comments were bluntly candid - "the North wind is concentration. It saves a harvest, prevents rot, concentrates color and sugar, concentrates everything we want. 1996 is better than 1990, it may be too early to say, but there, I said it." With that, Rousseau picked up one of the tastevins hanging on the wall (these are the small, wide, shallow, and traditional silver utensils used for tasting. As far as I know he is the only Burgundian who continues to use them on a regular basis), and the tasting began. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.

Lightly colored and precious little fruit on the nose and while the flavors are balanced, harmonious and certainly pleasant with acceptable depth and length, this is clearly not of grand cru quality. This will probably improve somewhat over the next few years but the lack of concentration and mid-palate density suggests it is best drunk on the young side. Tasted three times with consistent notes. Allen Meadows, Burghound Jul28,2007