2006 Charmes Chambertin

Bernard Dugat relates that his 2006 Charmes-Chambertin – constituting one-third Mazoyeres, and the rest vines near the Morey line – largely escaped hail. A sweet concentrate of black cherry mingles with game and peat. Firmness of tannin combined with notes chalky and charred notes make for a relatively spare overall impression, considering the initially sweet fruit impression. Heliotrope and vanilla scents waft throughout, adding allure. The balance between density and buoyancy here is uncanny and the wine's sheer length prodigious, although this is embryonic compared with most of its stable mates. Be prepared to give it 3-4 years in bottle before a clearer picture of its full potential emerges, although it will certainly last well for more than a decade. When one returns to it after the more powerful Mazoyeres, this Charmes' incipient charms become more evident. As usual, Bernard Dugat prided himself on having been able to harvest ahead of the ban de vendange thanks to the intensity of his vineyard labors and to yields of around 25 hectoliters per hectare. (He also credits the accumulated effects of three years on a biodynamic regimen.) Potential alcohol was for the most part in the high 12s, and only a handful of cuvees were lightly chaptalized, Dugat reports. As usual, too, he employed significant percentages of whole clusters and stems in most wines. For further details on Bernard Dugat's approach, see my report in issue 170. Perhaps it hardly requires noting, but the prices of these wines continue to rise relentlessly, sadly but perhaps inevitably putting them out of the reach of most Burgundy lovers. And unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste the two red appellation Bourgogne bottlings of this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800