2009 Vosne Romanee

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee is strikingly beautiful. Layers of dark fruit, spices, menthol and minerals emerge gracefully from this round, supple Burgundy. Readers interested in learning about the Liger-Belair wines without spending a fortune should start here. This is a striking effort. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s 2009s have turned out just as great as I thought they would. These are some of the most personal, intimate wines being made in Burgundy. There really is nothing else that even closely resembles the house style. Importer: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500

Deep red. Lovely fresh aromas of red raspberry and flowers complicated by smoke and earth. Densely packed for village wine, showing an almost confectionery sweetness to its red fruit, leather and game flavors. Finishes long and spicy, with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and impressive lift and perfume.

The 2009 Vosne-Romanée is a blend of ten parcels in Vosne harvested and vinified together, and aged partly in 350-liter barrels. About 80% of the fruit comes from vineyards on the bottom of the slope, while 20% comes from vineyards on the top. It shows gorgeous inner perfume and fabulous balance. Sweet spices and minerals linger on the delicate finish.