2005 Vosne Romanee

Medium red, paler than the 2006. Sexy, complex aromas of red berries, coffee, nuts and smoke; almost exotic following the 2006s. Fairly powerful but not particularly fruity, displaying good stuffing and an edge of acidity. The tannins will need some time to integrate.

A blend from five parcels, Rouget’s 2005 Vosne-Romanee offers a lovely, sweet scent of black fruits and flowers, incense, cumin and nutmeg. There is a striking palate counterpoint between brightly fresh black raspberry, cherry, and a creaminess of texture and caramelization of oak, finishing with beautiful, pure sweetness of black fruit liberally spiced and subtly underlain with chalk. You’d be hard pressed to find a more pristine or effusive village Vosne. One scarcely notices the structure, although I think it’s there. This is a case of “drink it now or drink it later” – you can’t lose. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Good bright red. Pure but reserved aromas of black cherry, dark berries, flowers and underbrush. Less forthcoming than the Nuits villages but more obviously structured. With its well-integrated, ripe acids, this projects a racy freshness. Finishes with firm tannins and lovely persistence. A highly promising village wine, from a yield of 42 hectoliters per hectare, according to Rouget.