2005 Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes

The 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes Vieilles Vignes offers sweet cherry aromas somewhat over-decorated with oaky vanilla, toast and resin. Flatteringly creamy and substantial in texture, its jammy fruit exhibits an overlay of caramel and vanilla, and a slightly animal, reduced note. The elements here may integrate and show more finesse with time. Laurent says he lost some of his earlier sources for village Chambolle and is reconstructing his program. A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23; Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327 0808

Bright ruby-red. Minerals and a bit of smoky reduction on the nose. Sweet and plush if a bit youthfully disjointed today, as the creamy fruit has not yet absorbed the wine's oak element. Finishes with broad tannins and a slight toughness. As supple as this is, it's showing awkwardly today.