2009 Girolate

This is the luxury cuvee of 100% Merlot from vines planted in dense spacing, fermented in barrel, and given impeccable attention from the grape-growing to the actual vinification and upbringing. A sensational, powerful wine that tips the scales at nearly 15% alcohol, it competes with grand cru classe wines, even though it is only entitled to a generic appellation of “Bordeaux.” Black purple-colored, with notes of chocolate fudge, espresso roast and blackberry fruit, the wine has super-intensity, a full-bodied mouthfeel and unbelievable concentration. Of course, this all comes from the clay and limestone soils of a special spot that the Despagnes think is their best vineyard parcel. It should drink well for up to a decade. The Despagne family make absolutely sensational value whites and reds. (See my tasting notes on their Tour de Mirambeau and Mont Perat in both red and white.)