2006 Girolate

Pretty concentrated colour. Lots of oak and a certain feral quality. Sweet start and real concentration. Much more convincing than many of the Saint-Émilion Grands Crus. Relatively light – no fierce tannins – and interesting! Good balance even if not for the very long term. Quite restrained and refreshing. Very forward but well done for the short term. Not for those with a horror of oak. (JR)

Bright medium ruby. Rich aromas of black raspberry, chocolate and smoky oak. Sweet and lush, with an attractive fruit/acid balance. Dominant flavor of black cherry. Finishes with chewy, building tannins and very good vinosity and aromatic perfume.

An experimental wine, but an impressive one from the Despagne family, this barrel-fermented (both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation) wine, made mostly from Merlot, completely transcends its humble pedigree. Dense purple in color, with notes of espresso roast, chocolate, pain grille, and copious black currants and blackberries, the wine is very chocolaty, rich, modern-styled, but impressively well-made as well as concentrated. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Feb 2009, www.robertparker.com