2004 Certan De May

Tannic, rough-hewn, and backward, but also dense and promising, this dark plum/purple-tinged 2004 offers notes of forest floor, roasted herbs, asphalt, sweet black cherries, and minerals. The complex aromatics are followed by a medium-bodied, tannic, muscular Pomerol that requires 3-4 years of bottle age. It should drink well for 15+ years.

Full deep red with ruby highlights. Explosive aromas of berries, meat, truffle, smoke, mocha, coffee and caramel. Rich, lush and silky-sweet, with a juicy lift and a bit of medicinal restraint to the red cherry and redcurrant flavors. Finishes with firm, dusty tannins and slightly sauvage notes of iron and woodsmoke. This has turned out nicely.

Saturated ruby-red. Black raspberry, mocha, espresso, tobacco, underbrush and pepper on the nose. Creamy-rich and pliant, if a bit laid-back today. Shows more chocolate, licorice and minerals than primary fruit. Not especially sweet at present but offers good density and inner-mouth energy. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins and sneaky length. An improvement over recent vintages, with Michel Rolland now consulting here.