1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Laurence

The 1998 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence is a beauty (and outshone the Cuvée da Capo on this showing) and displays thrilling aromatics of deep black fruits, meat, leather, licorice, and the hallmark spice and funk that only comes from Pégaü. Intense, and yet deep and layered on the nose, the wine doesn’t lose a beat on the palate with a rugged, full bodied feel, loads of texture, fantastic depth and concentration on the mid-palate, and a long, chewy finish that just keeps going. A great showing, this probably has two decades or prime drinking. Wow.

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Laurence, the finest example of this offering I have yet tasted (even better than the 1989, 1990, and 1995), spent four years in small barrels prior to being bottled unfiltered. A spectacular effort, it is a monument to great Chateauneuf du Pape. A dense plum/purple color is followed by aromas of sweet black fruits intermixed with tobacco, cedar, pepper, and fruitcake. Powerful, rich, and concentrated, with a finish that lasts for nearly a minute, this wine is performing far better than when I tasted it a year ago. It is a legendary Chateauneuf du Pape in the making. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate February 2003