2009 Marquis de Terme

Deep ruby red, with a silky texture that suggests a far younger wine than its 16 years of age and this retains dark spiced plum, a ton of violet flowers and orange peel, cassis fruits, crushed mint leaf and graphite. 50% new oak barrels for ageing. Love the smoky character than is starting to fully integrate at this point. First year with Ludovic David as director, and with Julien Viaud taking over from Michel Rolland (still same consultancy). First year with Diam corks also.

In 2009, Marquis de Terme had just finished up the first stage of the extensive renovations that would continue right up until the opening of the restaurant in 2018 - with the initial works focusing on updated cellars and winemaking equipment. Even without that, the quality of this 2009 is a good reminder of how well located this château is, with its powerful gravel and clay terroir. Even at 15 years old, the tannic architecture remains a little austere, showing less generosity than many of the 2009s, but it has lift, slate texture, blueberry fruits, peony aromatics that bring you into the heart of Margaux, and some bouncy acidity on the finish. First year with Ludovic David as director.

The 2009 Marquis de Terme was picked from September 30 to October 9 and matured for 16 months in 50% new French oak. It has a very attractive nose with red fruit, touches of chestnut and leather, and maybe just a hint of Brettanomyces, but nothing to get worried about. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and fresh acidity. It's more elegant than others in 2000 or 2005, with a touch of bitter cherry mixed with truffle oil on the finish. This would benefit from more time in bottle. Tasted at the Marquis de Terme vertical.