1996 Gevrey Chambertin Coeur du Roi

This wine (from 50-86 year old vines and aged in 80% new oak) is darker-colored and has aromas reminiscent of candied red and black berries awash in spicy oak. Its profound, expansive, medium-to-full-bodied, and silky-textured character is replete with plump, juicy cherries and toasted oak flavors that last throughout its supple finish. It should be at its best between 2000 and 2006. Bernard Dugat, with the assistance of his charming wife, son, and daughter, has fashioned extraordinary 1996s, nothing new for this family who, since the 1993 vintage, has been crafting some of Burgundy's finest wines. As I left Dugat-Py's cellars (her maiden name is Py and they added it to the estate's name to differentiate themselves from Bernard's famous cousin Claude) I felt that while his 1996's were superb, his 1995s were even better. With reflection, and with my notes from both tastings in hand, I realize that it comes down to the specific wines. Certain terroirs performed better in '95, and others in '96, most probably due to the weather which dramatically cut back yields in 1995 Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.