2000 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvee

The 2000 Coeur de Cuvee is literally made from the “heart” of the juice, with the first and last part of the pressing discarded. This is a richly textured, intense wine loaded with ripe fruit and sweet toasted oak. Today it remains quite primary, but it will be stunner in a few years’ time, once the full range of its tertiary aromas and flavors have developed. Patience is the key. Coeur de Cuvee is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir from 50-year old vines. This is the December, 2007 disgorgement. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Proprietor Laurent Champs makes some of the region’s most distinctive Champagnes. The Vilmart wines are characterized by an extreme sense of elegance, clarity and definition. The domaine’s eleven hectares of vineyards are planted with 60% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Noir and 4% Pinot Meunier, with vine ages ranging from 35 to 55 years, clearly towards the older side of the spectrum in the region. Champs prefers oak aging for his wines. The entry-level wines are aged in cask, while the top selections spend time in smaller French oak barrels. Readers should note that the entry-level NV is available on a very limited basis in the US, and I was not able to taste it for this article. Therefore, this range begins with the Grand Cellier, which represents a significantly higher level than the straight NV. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

(80% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir, fermented entirely in barriques; disgorged 11/2007) Vivid yellow, with a strong bead. Racy citrus and orchard fruit aromas slowly give way to gently smoky floral and baking spices. Taut on entry, offering lively blood orange, pear skin and succulent herb flavors, with an intriguing undertone of vanilla and tangy minerals. Manages to be lively and deep at the same time, finishing with lingering smokiness, excellent clarity and striking persistence. Bet on this gaining power with another few years in the bottle.