2003 Nuits St Georges Les Boudots (Domaine Gagey)

The terrific nose of the 2003 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Boudots boasts aromas of flowers, red cherries, blackberries, and blueberries. Medium to full-bodied, it is deep, broad, rich, and expressive. Its layers of velvety red and black fruits lead to a structured, tannic finish. Projected maturity: 2008-2018. Note: Three wines that were tasted as barrel samples in November, 2004 were re-tasted from bottle in June, 2005. The 2003 Puligny-Montrachet (rated 87 points) is medium-bodied, expressive and plush, yet focused; the 2003 Pernand-Vergelesses Croix de Pierre (88) sports a wonderful nose of flowers and red cherries as well as a deep medium-bodied character filled with stony dark fruits; and the outstanding 2003 Pommard Rugiens (92) is medium to full-bodied, dense, structured, intense, and crammed with dark fruits. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Good deep ruby-red. High-pitched aromas of black cherry, violet and minerals. Sweet and dense but light on its feet, with tight, concentrated flavors of dark chocolate and minerals. At once superripe and juicy. Youthful finish features powerful spine. Much more impressive than a sample of Boudots made from wine purchased by Jadot (and not destined for the U.S. market), as well as a Damodes from the same owner.

A subtly complex and noticeably fresher nose displays notes of vanilla, Vosne-style spice and warm earth notes that offer a seductive introduction to the round, sappy and delicious flavors that display hints of mocha and tobacco on the long finish, all underpinned by dusty but ripe core of tannins. There is a touch of warmth on the finish but not enough to be intrusive. Allen Meadows, Burghound Apr01,2005