2011 Kirwan

A cooler-than-average but dry vintage, and this is showing edges of library, gunsmoke, capsicum and tobacco leaf, good weight through the palate, with lift underneath. Subtle with real charm and appellation typicity, and as things open a shot of blackcurrant pastille arrives, adding richness and a more intense fruit character. Tannins a little austere but they hug the palate and there is finesse here. Give it a good few hours in a carafe. Harvest 12 to 29 September, 41hl/h yield, 45% new oak for ageing.

First bottle: TCA? Second bottle: dusty on the nose, very dry powdery tannins. Lacks flesh and fruit. Could also be mildly affected by TCA, I'm not sure – seems likely as it showed much better en primeur. (JH)

The dense ruby/purple-colored, chunky, rich, slightly masculine 2011 Kirwan is medium-bodied and fleshy. It reveals excellent extraction of fruit and flavor, sweet, but noticeable tannins and a nicely textured mouthfeel as well as finish. While it may not be an archetypical Margaux, it is impressively endowed. Still young, it should hit its prime in 5-6 years and have 15-20 years of upside ahead of it.