1998 Veuve Clicquot la Grande Dame Rose

An extremely cold winter, with snow on the Montagne de Reims, gave way to an unexpected warm spell with moderate rain showers. Spring was early and wet, but May was particularly hot and dry. The rain we had at the end of June didn’t affect flowering, which took place under excellent, almost heat wave, conditions. At the beginning of summer there were alternating periods of hot weather then rain which encouraged rapid growth. August was perfect for ripening: dry and sunny. After a grey and cloudy two weeks at the beginning of September, the weather turned, providing the ideal dry climate to harvest the grapes, which were in superb condition. 85% still white wine (54% Pinot Noir, 31% Chardonnay), 15% Bouzy Rouge. Dosage 8 g/l, disgorged Nov 2010. Colour of Victoria plum jam – orange with a slight brown touch. Complex nose that brings in sousbois and grilled nuts but also a bit oxidative – honeyed plums. Complex with a toasty, plum-flavoured finish but seems to be on the way down and not tasting nearly as well (or not such a good bottle) as when I tasted it last year. Fine and persistent mousse, still has freshness. Age is much more evident on this wine, especially compared with the 1989, and it seems more dilute on the finish. To me it seemed to be on a downward trajectory but chef de cave Dominique Demarville thinks this wine will come back – it is already better than it was a few years ago, apparently. (JH)