1989 Veuve Clicquot la Grande Dame Rose

A return to the hot and sunny vintages such as the legendary years 1945, 1959 and 1964. After a relatively mild winter, bud break was very early, from the end of March onwards. A colder spell followed and on April 27, a severe frost attacked a substantial part of the Champagne vineyards. The Côte des Blancs suffered minor damage, mainly towards the northern part (Chouilly). Avize, Oger and Mesnil-sur-Oger remained intact, as did Verzenay and Verzy, on the Montagne de Reims. There was greater damage to the east and the south, notably in Ambonnay, Bouzy and Ay, on the lower slopes. Veuve Clicquot’s vineyard, situated on the middle slopes of these areas where the frost was less biting, was relatively unharmed. A milder period of almost summer weather set in, allowing the vine to return to its usual life-cycle but at the beginning of the crucial flowering period, there was a cold snap that raised the risk of damage from shatter and millerandage. Better weather came and fortunately lasted from mid-June until the harvest, giving a succession of hot, sunny days. Picking began on 4 September. The first grapes were picked from the best crus of the Côte des Blancs and had ripened in perfect conditions. A few days later we harvested Pinot Noir, which were then at their best: superb quality and in perfect condition. The Pinots Noirs exceeded 10 g/l (18 ºB) and the Chardonnays from our best crus even reached 11 g/l (20 °B). In Bouzy, where Veuve Clicquot grows the vines for its red wine, the Pinot Noir grapes were harvested from 15 September. 85% white still wine (51% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay),15% Bouzy Rouge. Dosage 8 g/l, disgorged 1998. Charles Delahaye was the chef de cave at this time – he's now 95. A good deal paler than the 1998, much more similar to the colour of the 2006. Fabulous toasty grilled notes on the nose, some dried fruits, but still a little salty and still showing some red fruit. Rich and sweet/sour on the palate, dense but so alive and fresh and seems younger than the 1998, a little touch of coffee. Toasty and so full of flavour, rich and deep and long with even now a slight tannin sensation on the finish. (JH)