2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Saint-Vivant Marey Monge***

Absolutely staggering to be offered a fourth pour of this stunning wine at last November's fundraising dinner in aid of Marie Curie at Vintners' Hall! This was Adam Brett-Smith of Corney & Barrow's last year as chairman of the committee and he was clearly determined to go out with a bang. C&B represent DRC and he managed to prevail upon Aubert de Villaine to be quite extremely generous. Introducing the wine, Aubert explained that the vines in this heatwave vintage were extremely resilient. The fruit was almost prune-like which faded as the wine settled into the glass. Then the terroir started to assert itself. This was a truly gorgeous wine, which may or may not have been rather sweeter than usual. Tip top. Vibrant. At the top of its game. It probably evolved slightly faster than some other vintages. (JR)

Mid crimson with some blackness and a smudgy rim. Light, strangely simple nose. Boiled candy. Then flattering sweetness on the palate and a hint of dry tannins on the finish. Lack of lushness on the palate. Difficult to see how this going to develop. Rather short. But there is lots of pleasure here. It at least makes me feel like going home to drink a 2003 now! (JR)

Very good deep red-ruby. Very ripe aromas of raspberry, earth, Oriental spices, truffle and smoke; shows a slight suggestion of surmaturite but at the same time is perked up by a suggestion of menthol. Then sweet and supple, with very good definition and a light touch for 2003. Finishes with big tannins and impressive density and length.