2023 Bressay Vineyard Pinot Noir

The 2023 Pinot Noir Bressay Estate Vineyard comes from high-density vines planted in 2005. Grapes were harvested on September 21 and 23, and the wine was fermented with around 33% whole clusters. Matured for 15 months in 33% new French oak, it’s expressive and singular on the nose: raspberry jam and blood orange are accented by wafts of lavender, juniper, tea leaves and spice. The medium-bodied palate is just as impressive, offering an effortless balance of sapidity and vibrancy. Its detailed flavors are structured by fine, tea-like tannins, and it has a very long finish with soaring floral perfume. 600 cases were made.

The bright ruby/magenta-hued 2023 Pinot Noir Bressay Estate Vineyard comes from vines behind the vineyard house, mainly planted to the Calera selection, and saw 40% whole clusters. The nose is more intense, with notes of wild raspberries, brambly herbs, floral perfume, and spice box. The palate is medium-framed, with refined, elegant tannins and a lovely, savory feel. As it opens in the glass, it gains in depth and complexity, and I would not be surprised to see this perform even better at future tastings. Drink 2027-2047. 600 cases were produced. Late last year, Andy Smith handed over the winemaking portion of his title to Jenna Davis. Jenna has been with the winery for over ten years, joining as a harvest intern in 2014 and working up to assistant winemaker. Andy retains his roles as partner and winegrower at DuMOL but was ready to pass the torch to the next generation in the winery’s legacy. The 2023s for this report were tasted in Sonoma with Andy and Jenna, as they have been for all three years of my coverage. Earning top marks for what this vintage has to offer, across the range the wines capture freshness and retain the focused concentration that gives them serious potential for longevity.

The 2023 Pinot Noir Bressay Estate Vineyard is a powerful, exotic wine. Dark fruit, graphite, lavender, incense and dried flowers infuse the palate with tremendous intensity and tons of pure, sheer power. Vertical tannins convey brooding intensity. The 50% stems are nearly buried here. This young wine has so much potential.