2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Reserve

The 2022 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from a variety of vineyards in Margaret River, and so it provides the antithesis of the single-vineyard Steven's Road Cabernet tasted alongside. Here, the Reserve leads with eucalypt and pink peppercorns (with that citrus, blood orange tint to it), tobacco, cedar and pencil shavings, and the oak is currently a feature. The wine has 5% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot, and these provide further structure, florals (wet roses and violets) and spice. Routinely a beautiful wine, it's no different in this vintage, and it will reward careful cellaring for decades to come. Matured in French oak for 14 months, 40% new.

90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot. Winemaker Glenn Goodall. Fruit from three vineyards. All Haughton clone on own rootstock, average vine age 25 years. Mostly dry-farmed on free-draining ironstone/gravelly loams. Conventional viticulture. ‘An outstanding vintage in Margaret River despite the low yields.’ Harvest 18 March to 2 April. Small-batch fermentation in a combination of static and open fermenters; 20% of the Cabernet given 28 days extended maceration before gentle pressing. Fermentation for 7–8 days at 24–26 °C, with cap management by pumping over and hand-plunging. Aged for 14 months in 225-litre French oak barriques (40% new). Filtered. 700 dozen produced. Shaded crimson. Heady and rich on the nose. Minerals on the end in quantity! Back to the stony model! Very obviously Margaret River – nothing wrong with that. Good energy. (JR)