2023 Benom Lapsus

This cuvée started in 2018 and is a tiny selection based on 27% Graciano, 25% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 23% Mourvèdre, aged 18 months in 60% new French oak and 40% neutral oak. Darker blackberries, cassis, pepper, violets, and chalky minerality all emerge from the 2023 Lapsus, a gorgeous wine that's concentrated, medium to full-bodied, pure, focused, and elegant, with ultra-fine tannins. This is clearly a brilliant wine in the making. I always love these wines from the Fabre brothers Arnaud and Guillaume. Their Benom releases pull primarily from Paso Robles (Willow Creek and Adelaida) with additional fruit from the San Luis Obispo Coast and Edna Valley. The lineup includes one white, Contrast, a Chardonnay-based blend with a splash of Sauvignon Blanc raised in a mix of neutral and new French oak and concrete, and a range of reds: Origin is pure Cabernet Sauvignon, Les Deux Frères is Grenache-driven with Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Syrah, Lapsus is close to an even split of Graciano, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mourvèdre, Muze is Mourvèdre dominant with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, Hoc is led by Carignan with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and Reflet is nearly an even split of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Most spend about 18 months in French oak with varying percentages of new wood, and components for some wines see neutral oak or concrete. The wines are impeccably made and age-worthy.