2017 Chateau Pavie Macquin, St. Emilion, 3 l

Juicy blackberry and damson fruits, this could almost be ready to drink now as it is already showing delicate, finely-sculpted tannins, touches of lace and linen alongside the slate texture. Having said that, this is likely to age like the 2001, meaning it might be worth getting on board now but then putting it away for another few decades. Without doubt one of the wines of the vintage (when I tasted it in bottle I wrote that it 'climbs right out of the 2017 pigonhole' and I definitely stand by that comment). Expect subtle pleasures, not exuberance, with gentle smoked saffron and liqourice root lingering on the palate. Part of the classic vintages series within this vertical.

Tasted blind. Deep ruby colour. Sweet red-berry fruit, leather and a hint of dried leaves on the nose. The palate has an oily entry with fleshy red fruit at the core. Wood tannins and leathery spice, with hints of cocoa and mocha line the palate. As with many ambitious right-bank reds, the smoke of oak feels heavy-handed for the fruit potential of the vintage. (TP)