2007 Lillian Syrah Santa Barbara

Missing from the Rhone Ranger report last November was the 2007 Lillian Winery Syrah. Sporting stunning purity and depth on the nose, the wine possesses decadent blackberry and cassis fruit aromas that are complemented by subtle meat, pepper, tar, and wild herb nuances that come through more with air. Layered and complex on the nose, the wine is full bodied on the palate with a gorgeously rich texture, perfect balance, superb mid-palate depth, and a very long, focused finish. Very pure, and showing solid complexity even at this young stage, this classic California Syrah should evolve over the next 3 to 6 years, and drink well for 15+ years.

Opaque purple. A kaleidoscopic bouquet evokes black raspberry, cola, incense and olive tapenade, with a sexy floral quality that gains power with aeration. Lush, palate-staining dark berry preserve flavors are complemented by exotic spice and violet pastille qualities and are lifted by zesty minerality. Gains weight with air but retains its energy, finishing spicy, smoky and with outstanding persistence. Readers should also seek out Maggie Harrison's excellent Antica Terra pinot noirs from Oregon, which were reviewed in IWC issue #151.