1981 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Madeira

Bottled 2020. VA 1.27 g/l, TA 8.91 g/l, RS 74 g/l. Mid-deep amber, with some rim olive. Some wood-polish and old-leather volatile notes show its age, but this complex nose draws you in: walnut fudge, smoke and underlying cooked citrus, with a medicinal hint in there somewhere too. Vibrant acidity balances the moderate sweetness superbly. Rich and long, with a vanilla-spiced finish. A lovely Verdelho. (TJ)