2009 Domaine Julien Sunier Morgon

Sour cherry, vanilla, resin, and allusions to animal fats in the nose of Sunier’s 2009 Morgon emerge onto a texturally polished if slightly sweet-sour palate, with barrel-induced inflections of vanilla, cocoa, and brown spices, no doubt adding appeal for some tasters, while tending to slightly dry what would otherwise probably be a finish as juicy as that of the corresponding (entirely tank-raised) Regnie. Enjoy this by 2015. After a colorful and international array of wine making experiences and five years with a big Beaujolais-based negociant, in 2008 Julien Sunier cobbled together three hectares in as many crus, whose parcels he has converted to an organic regimen. He gives his wines relatively long elevage, so two of his 2009s came to my attention too late for my Issue 196 report, and I have not had chance to follow up on those initial tastings. But this domaine is worth watching. Joli Vin Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (415) 308-2460