2007 Clot de l'Oum Saint-Barts Vieilles Vignes

A blend of one-third Syrah from schist vineyards, one-third Grenache grown on gravel and one-third Carignan on gravel and gneiss at altitude. The Carignan vines are about 100 years old. Aged 15 months in first- and second-fill barrels. Unfiltered. Biodynamic. Closed nose: just a suggestion of freshly ground coffee and garrigue. Beautifully defined framework. Lots of dried herbs and savoury spice – very fragrant in the mouth. This needs plenty of time. Cherry and red pepper tang. Alive. Plenty of energy. (TC)

A blend principally of Carignan and Grenache, with some Syrah, from granite and gneiss, and assembled in tank when I tasted it, the 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Saint-Bart Vieilles Vignes smells of fresh blackberry, cassis, and violets. Sappy, concentrated, and with considerable underlying palate richness allied to exuberance and energy, low-toned toasted walnut and subtly tart fruit skin serve for additional counterpoint and invigoration in a long finish. This will clearly be the most exciting rendition of this cuvee to date, and worth following in bottle for at least 5-7 years. Eric Monne – who works weekdays at the EU patent offices in The Haag – continues (with his wife Leia) to refine Clot de l’Oum’s technique and wines. The latter are concentrated yet refined and elegant, and often need considerable time in bottle to show their true meddle. Monne demonstrates how his wines have come down in alcohol and pH under the influence of a scrupulously organic and selectively biodynamic, soil-sensitive viticultural regimen, while one’s palate registers that the wines are more expressive, and the 2007s are almost certainly his best collection yet. (Incidentally, wines grown in Belesta – where Monne’s winery and most of his vines are located – are entitled to Cotes du Roussillon Villages Caramany appellation, named for a nearby town. A few Clot de l’Oum wines have been so-labeled, but when I pointed this out to Monne, he laughed and said he really hadn’t noticed; his father takes care of the official registrations, and Monne was unconcerned by the name!) Having only begun to make white wine, the Monnes’ tremendous success is further demonstration of the amazing potential of Roussillon Grenache Gris when blended with other traditional local grapes, and Monne is already talking about planting Grenache Gris and Carignan Gris (yes, such a grape exists!). A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Joli Vin Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 849-9861