2019 Scharzhofberger Feine Auslese

The 2019 Scharzhofberger Auslese #8 is perfectly clear, precise and flinty on the nicely reductive and spicy nose with its tropical fruit (mango, papaya) aromas and, later, also very fine raisin notes that represent perfect botrytis. On the palate, this is a dense and mouth-filling yet gorgeously fresh, piquant and salty Auslese with perfectly ripe and juicy fruit, great precision, finesse and balance. This is a hedonistic, perfectly balanced and weightless Auslese with a stimulating, fine grip on the long, tensioned, irresistibly seductive finish. This 2019 is a gorgeous yet, unfortunately, expensive Auslese, the only one produced here in 2019 .

In spite of the concentrated exotic fruit character, this Auslese masterpiece does not impress through weight or density, rather through extreme finesse. No less importantly, all this ripeness is married to staggeringly refreshing acidity and an intense, herbal freshness that leaves you breathless with wonder. Drink or hold.

The 2019 Riesling Scharzhofberger Auslese (Müller’s lone Scharzhofberger Auslese this year, bearing A.P. #8 and sold at auction) is dominated by peach and quince preserves in collaboration with marzipan and candied lemon peel. But despite the confitured and confectionary personality that this suggests, there is – as nearly always at this address – not the least bit of extraneous sweetness, but rather, it seems, precisely the amount needed to showcase the fruity and floral flavors and balance the acidity. In this instance, the acids deliver a remarkable sense of cut and clarity even as the underlying texture proves seductively silken. A hint of caramel adds to the colorful array of flavors on the superbly sustained finish, which pulls vibratory energy from some source that the initial palate impression had not hinted at, and will doubtless help power this wine’s performance for decades to come.