2012 Domaine Dugat-Py Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée jumps from the glass with dark red cherry, plum, spice and iron. Today, the 2012 is a bit reduced, but not enough to detract from the wine's considerable appeal. The style is rich, textured very much on the intense side at the villages level. I imagine the 2012 will still be an impressive wine at age twenty.

80-year-old vines. 90% whole bunch. 30% new oak. Deep colours. Much richer than the average village wine! Lots of glossy appeal and freshness. Not as sweet and heavy as some earlier vintages. Lovely stuff! (JR)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee Village consists of one new barrel and one used 350-litre barrel. It has a very sensual bouquet with lush ripe dark cherry and cassis fruit that is very pure. The palate has a fine grip on the entry. There is patently good extraction leading to quite high-toned with sappy dark fruit on the finish that has a slight metallic tincture. Give this a couple of years to calm down in bottle. Rapping the door at Domaine Dugat-Py, at first sight I thought that Bernard Dugat had aged a little…about thirty years to be exact. Now I know that his parents live in the conjoined house next door and that his son inherited his looks from his father, Pierre Dugat, as well as some of the most propitious vineyard holdings in Gevrey. Bernard’s wines have always had a modern sheen with relatively high use of new oak from his village crus upwards (100% for all his premier and grand crus.) These are not wines for those expecting subtlety or “transparency” – they are packed with intense flavors, bold structure and occasionally extravagant finishes. The 2012s are no exception, but for the most part these wines handles the new oak with aplomb, principally because a combination of grand crus and old vines give the solid foundation for that level of new oak, that culminate in a quite audacious Mazis-Chambertin. Of course, as Bernard mentioned, his preponderance of old vine material meant that he was hit hard by millerandage and as a consequence yields are miniscule: around 18 or 19hl/ha. The harvest commenced on 21 September with the premier crus and like many growers the malo-lactics were late, which meant that I was unable to taste two or three crus such as the Gevrey Petite Chapelle. If you like your Burgundy packed full of intensity but with finesse and do not mind cellaring for a decade a more, Dugat-Py is the place to come. Importer: The Sorting Table, LLC, 1700 Second Street Suite 380 Napa, CA 94559 ; tel: 707-603-1466 and also through Lea & Sandeman in the UK.