2009 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard is a big, implosive wine. It boasts tons of muscle and depth, but also comes across as a little heavy next to the other wines in this lineup, with limited expressiveness in its aromatics and fruit. If the wine softens, it may merit a higher score down the road. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Kosta Browne is one of the great American success stories of the last decade. The story begins when longtime friends Dan Kosta and Michael Browne discover a shared passion for Pinot Noir while working together at a local restaurant. They start with a tiny amount of homemade Pinot Noir, grow gradually, acquire some financing along the way, work their tails off and one day the mailing list requires a five year wait for the vineyard designated wines. Of course I am simplifying, but Kosta Browne is the type of entrepreneurial success that can only happen in this country. Over the years, as the winemaking approach has developed, the wines have become much more finessed than they used to be. Toast levels have come down. Some lots are fermented in open top wood vats, an approach that seems promising based on the wines I tasted. A number of the wines were fermented with whole clusters, as noted below. The Kosta-Browne Pinots are notable for their exuberant fruit. The wines are incredibly attractive when young, which is when I prefer to drink them. Tel. (707) 823-7430

Bright ruby. Expressive, ripe aromas of oak-spiced black raspberry, white pepper and a whiff of incense. Full, sweet and harmonious, with great lift and energy to its sappy dark berry, cherry-cola and licorice flavors. Compellingly sweet and palate-coating pinot with excellent precision on the explosive, vibrant finish. Offers a felicitous blend of power and vivacity.