2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux

The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru is similarly lifted, with a bit darker fruit and more structure than the Corton. A deceptive, beguiling Burgundy, the 2017 shows the mid-weight structure of the year. Here too, time in the glass brings out the wine’s vertical feel and overall intensity. The 2017 needs time to soften, but it is incredibly persistent and impeccable in its balance. Readers should expect an especially austere Echézeaux that is going to require cellaring. The fruit was brought in on September 13 and 15, with a day’s break in between because of rain.

The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru was cropped at 30hl/ha, picked September 13 and 15, and bottled over several days in January and February 2019. It has a pale, clear hue. The expressive bouquet, featuring red cherries, cranberry and a touch of bergamot, is well defined, open and shares the tertiary characteristic of the Corton. The palate is medium-bodied and open-knit, with fine-boned tannins, and underpinned by a fine bead of acidity, although not an intense Grand Cru for sure. Slightly grainy in texture, it shows a fine sense of tension and grip. This is a persistent Echézeaux with darker fruit than the Corton, and very saline toward the finish, with good persistency. You could almost broach it now, but that would be sacrilege – wouldn’t it? 1,289 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in-bottle tasting in London.

Paler ruby than the Corton. Great intensity and charm on the nose. Round and rich. Already a complete charmer. Great freshness and ferny quality on the end. Complete. Earlyish maturing. Dry finish but very readable already. 1,289 cases (JR)