1994 Château Gruaud Larose

The 1994 Gruaud Larose is a vintage I regularly drank in the formative days of my career because it was "cheap as chips". It has always been a no-frills, "solid" Saint-Julien. Black plum and Monte Cristo cigars on the nose, it was never endowed with tons of fruit, which has faded in recent years. The palate is typical of the vintage, relatively dry and conservative, leafy and indicative of some Cabernet Sauvignon that never reached full maturity. My most recent bottle at a private dinner in London suggests it should be drunk shortly.

The 1994 performed better prior to bottling. It appears to have dropped much of its mid-palate sweetness and fatness, tastes greener than my cask-tasting notes suggested, and finishes with a searing degree of harsh, bitter tannin. Perhaps I caught it in a dormant, unflattering state of evolution, but it is currently revealing less ripeness, fruit, and texture. This wine's future is suspect as the wine lacks harmony.

Some good berry and tobacco notes, but it's slightly dry and lean compared to others. A bit disappointing for this estate. Best after 1997. James Suckling, Wine Spectator 1997.