2007 Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is more elegant and less explosive than the Riserva. Exquisite aromatics meld into layers of expressive fruit in a Brunello that is surprisingly crystalline for the vintage. Crushed rocks, minerals and violets emerge over time, adding considerable finesse. Always light on its feet, the 2007 has plenty of vintage character and fabulous overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2032. Andrea Costanti has turned out a superb set of wines. What else is new? His 2008 Brunello is one of the wines of the vintage. Judging by the wines Costanti has in the cellar, there are plenty of exciting Brunellos in the pipeline as well. Costanti ages his Brunellos in a combination of cask and tonneau. Tasting the separate components illustrates the effect of oak on unfinished wines to a striking degree. Personally, I feel this fruit, from relatively high-altitude sites near the center of town, is best suited to more neutral oak. That is also true of the Riserva, a wine that, while outstanding, doesn-t seem to hit the same high notes as the straight bottling. I have long thought of Costanti as a top ten estate in Montalcino, but I am now convinced this property could belong in the top five. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Good full, bright red. Complex, soil-inflected aromas of red cherry, red berries, flowers, spices and minerals. Wonderfully plump, seamless and suave, with enticing sweetness to its red fruit and mineral flavors. A saline element, harmonious acidity and underlying minerality give sappiness and elegance to this very long, strong, sophisticated 2007. This wonderfully silky, sweet, expressive wine retained its energy well after 72 hours in the recorked bottle. A beauty.

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of grace and elegance. This isn't a huge, powerful wine like the 2006, but rather a Brunello that impresses for its total finesse. Sweet floral notes lead to hints of tobacco, wild herbs and spices on the refined finish. Layers of fruit flesh out beautifully in a radiant, expressive wine that captures the essence of the vintage. Costanti gave the 2007 Brunello 36 months in oak, 18 months in medium-sized barrels followed by 18 months in cask. This is a fabulous showing from Andrea Costanti.