1999 Eric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes

The only northern Rhone wine I tasted from Texier is the 1999 Cote Rotie Vieilles Vignes. It is very backward, requiring significant aeration in the glass or decanter in order to reveal its personality. A deep ruby/purple color is followed by a big, sweet, toasty oak-scented nose that, with air, reveals cassis, black raspberry, olive, bacon, and mineral notes. This wine is medium-bodied, with a sweet mid-palate, but closed as well as austere in the finish. It will need to be decanted for hours in advance of drinking. In lieu thereof, wait 3-4 years for the magic to begin. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2015. Importers: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 319-8768; David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; and Vintners Select.