2005 Riesling Singerriedel Smaragd

Hirtzberger reports that he had to dump into the woods more than four tons of fruit from the Singerriedel in order to save only the fruit that was worthy to inform his 2005 Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel. Even more so than last year, this wine has a hard act to follow in the form of the Hochrain, and my (perverse?) personal preference in many years for the dynamism of the latter vis a vis the stately beauty of Singerriedel is long a matter of record. This Singerriedel offers an ester-filled nose of apricot jam, distilled apricot, and musk. Rich, full, creamy, and subtly oily on the palate, it delivers a finishing surge of apricot, apricot kernel, almond, musk, and brown spices of remarkable purity, intensity, and clarity for the vintage. For those who cellar these two Riesling high points of the 2005 vintage – and any Riesling lover with the requisite disposable income should – I would predict that the Singerriedel will peak before the Hochrain. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85). Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700