1991 Domaine Leroy Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru

The 1991 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is a spellbinding achievement from Lalou Bize-Leroy. Hitherto I had only tasted it once before, when I described it as a “Pandora’s box,” and that description is apt here. The crystalline, harmonious bouquet, featuring intense black and red fruit, damp undergrowth and shucked oyster shells, is one of the most complex and compelling that I have ever encountered from the domaine. The palate displays astonishing balance, so fresh and brimming with vim and vigor that you cannot believe it is already some 26 years old. Blind, I was convinced this was in fact from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. It is a fabulous, disarming and quite bewitching elixir that will continue to drink well for many years. Showstopping! 2,044 bottles produced. Tasted at the DRC/Leroy comparative dinner in Hong Kong.

The ruby-colored 1991 Romanee-St.-Vivant boasts a terrific nose reminiscent of dark fruits blended with fresh herbs and traces of cocoa powder. This wine's deep and detailed character is loaded with mocha-infused red and black fruits. It is highly-concentrated, elegant, and possesses an extremely long, supple finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2008+.