2000 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Also mature, yet still lively and fresh, the 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape is a beauty that gives up loads of pepper, earth, ground herbs and ripe Grenache-driven fruit to go with a medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated, balanced feel. It is a classic Chateauneuf du Pape that will continue to drink nicely for at least another handful of years from cool cellars, and have a gradual downward evolution beyond that. One of the softest spoken, yet reflective and hardworking people in Chateauneuf du Pape, Laurent Charvin farms his eight hectares in the northern portion of the appellation, in the lieux-dits of Maucoil, Cabrieres, and l’Arnesque, to a “T”. A sixth generation farmer (his family has been at this site since 1851), Laurent was the first to move away from selling all of their grapes to the negociants, and bottled his first release in 1990. As this tasting shows, his wines are consistently outstanding and age gracefully. In addition, Laurent also excels in the difficult vintages, which is common for vignerons who spend the majority of their time in the vineyards. Remaining staunchly in favor of a single cuvee, Laurent’s Chateauneuf du Pape is always a rough blend of 85% Grenache, 5% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Vaccarese. He never destems and the wine sees absolutely no oak, aging 21 months in large concrete tanks. In addition to his Chateauneuf, he produces a beautiful Cotes du Rhone (from the vines located around his house, next to the lieu-dit of Maucoil), and, just recently, a rose. We finished the tasting with a trio of Laurent’s Cotes du Rones, which come from vineyards located around his estate, in the northwestern part of the appellation. It’s always a rough blend of 85% Grenache and the balance Syrah and Carignan, that’s aged all in tank. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Just a beautiful, traditional Chateauneuf, the 2000 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape shows a big, perfumed nose of raspberries, dusty spice, garrigue and subtle leather aromas. Medium bodied in the mouth and certainly not a blockbuster; it has a smooth, elegant texture, great balance and a long finish. Drinking extremely well and an awesome wine.

The glories at this estate are unquestionably their Chateauneuf du Papes. Fashioned from a blend of 82% Grenache, and the rest Syrah, Mourvedre, and a dollop of Vacarese, the 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape initially appears closed, but with 30 minutes of airing, it explodes from the glass. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a sweet nose of creme de cassis, kirsch liqueur, licorice, pepper, and underbrush. Voluptuously-textured and exceptionally long (the finish lasts 45+ seconds), with silky tannin, low acidity, and full body, it is less tannic and delineated than the 2001, but it offers a gorgeous, seductive mouthful of old vine Chateauneuf du Pape. It will age effortlessly for 12-15 years. Readers who believe Chateauneuf du Pape can not be a wine of finesse and elegance should taste Charvin! Robert Parker, Wine Advocate # 145 Feb 2003