2006 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er Cru

Christian Gouges opines that this monopole site offers an especially favorable cross-section of the slope, its clay-rich lower portions promoting good acid retention and structure while The Gouges share of 2006 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers – like their Clos des Porrets St.-Georges – runs from the clay-rich bottom of this cru up to its stony top (where, notes Christian Gouges, working the vines is downright dangerous) – which may help account for its complexity. Ripe, rich cherry, plum and lingonberry retain lovely clarity to a wealth of somehow ore-like as well as chalky mineral nuances. Like the Porrets, this has abundant but fine tannins and comes off both dense and texturally silken. It finishes in a slightly cooler, more austere and overtly mineral vein, but with invigorating tartness and sheer refreshment that keep it enticing. I would however be only very slightly less-inclined to enjoy this young than I would other wines of this collection, while expecting it to perform well for the better part of a decade. To hear Christian Gouges tell – and, indeed, to taste the wines – there was nothing terribly problematic about 2006 or exceptional about his approach to it; he considers his (in the context of this vintage) relatively low finished alcohols of 12.5-13% ideal; and he says the wines all clarified beautifully without fining or filtration. I find the denser, more structured 2005s here are completely routed by the 2006s' charm offensive, though perhaps a return engagement half a dozen or more years from now will prove a fairer fight. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Very dark crimson. Scented and quite rich. Thick and black cherries. Vigorous but a bit earthy. Chewy end and without great intensity (JR)

Bright ruby. Lots of energy and muscle with the fruit just about triumphing over those surly tannins. Some vivacity here. The vineyard speaks! A real athlete with much more fruit than the Clos des Porrets. (JR)