2007 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein

Moosbrugger’s 2007 Riesling Heiligenstein raises the stakes on the Gaisberg in every department. Effusive, heady hyacinth and wisteria florality is allied to sumptuously rich, peachy palate presence (the effect of the estate’s energy-trapping lyra-trained vines on this site being much felt) and there is a prickly pungency and tactile expression of minerality in a finish of undeniable grip, but also clearer than that of the Gaisberg. As this evolves in the glass, one catches a certain cool, honeydew melon-like fruit cast and a saline, savory underlying character. It will be fascinating to follow this wine, as its layers interact or separate, and I would plan on at least 7-9 years of interest. Michael Moosbrugger did not begin his main white wine harvest – even for lighter-weight Gruner Veltliner – until mid-October. Unlike most Krems area growers he also picked nobly sweet wine, based on a late bloom of botrytis. Moosbrugger seems to have achieved some (considering the weather) surprisingly successful reds in 2007, having painstakingly cut off half of each cluster to inhibit the development of rot, then harvested prior to any of his whites. (I’ll report on those reds after I have re-tasted them from bottle. For notes on two outstanding 2006 vintage reds which have since lived up to their promise in bottle, consult my report in issue 177.) Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300